The Importance of Being Korean
It’s more like a salad, but with grains. It’s a rice salad. It’s not a rice entree. It’s not a rice bowl. It’s a salad that happens to have rice in it. I hope that clarifies the proportion of rice to salad ratio. As well to debunk the myth of rice being a filler.
RICE IS NOT A FILLER!
There is a home video of when I am about 4 years old in the first apartment my parents lived in when they moved to Los Angeles. My dad is shirtless, wearing tennis shorts, and bouncing me on his knee while eating dinner and talking at the same time to the camera or my mom, I can’t tell. We’re all sitting around a small bistro table, and there is some kind of stew in the middle, individual bowls of rice for him and my mom, and some banchan to share. My dad is fixated on eating, and food is entering his mount, one bite after another as if each bite relied on the previous one. He’s mastered holding his chopsticks and spoon in the same hand which, as a father of a 4 year old, probably came in very handy.
According to a Korean etiquette website, it is not considered good etiquette to hold your spoon and chopsticks in the same hand, especially while eating in front of elders.
As he’s talking, he carefully slurps a spoonful of stew into his mouth. Before he swallows, he’s quickly added a spoonful of rice. He knows that the starch will not only give the soup texture, but also help prolong the flavors in his mouth. He switches deftly to chopsticks and picks up a bite of fried anchovies that have been caramelized with a little soy sauce and a touch of honey. As a final top note of contrast, he lashes a square sheet of cold, spicy fermented cabbage into his mouth. He repeats this process over and over again, masterfully alternating between spoonfuls of stew and bites of salinity. Perhaps the soy sauce braised soy beans opt in when he tires of the anchovies. Other times, he takes a break and cleanses his mouth with just the broth.
The art of eating. The logic of eating as a friend mentioned. The mastery of flavor building. It’s a beautiful thing. I knew I was good at it when my friend Jess said she loved watching me eat because every bite seemed purposeful, and the flavors that I orchestrated to collaborate sang in the harmony I knew they would. Seeing the satisfaction in the umph and the closed eyes, was seeing me be proud of myself.
A flavor pyramid does a great job explaining how we perceive flavor, and what makes a culinary experience feel whole. It’s a science that is relevant from molecules all the way to menu development.
Some of this knowledge we know from history and personal experience (Clam chowder goes really well with oyster crackers. A sandwich is best served with a side of potato chips). The best bites are ones that master the flavor pyramid (a lettuce leaf with warm caramelized pork belly topped with a garlicky soybean chili paste). But over time, it’s a simple formula you can apply to anything or anyhow you eat.
There’s the classic food pyramid that advocates for a diet based on starches with meat and fat at the top (a good reminder in the current paleo frenzy!). But once I went down the google hole, I found tons of other pyramids! Like this one for perfume.
We’re really talking about the principle of three, and the magic number that takes anything from good to great. Although in the case of the pork belly lettuce wrap, I’d argue 4 components is when the magic starts to happen.(lettuce+meat+sauce+pickle)
Just some food for thought.
All this to say, I finally read Samin Nosrat’s book Salt Fat Acid Heat and I’m jealous I didn't write it. I, too, always think about these pillars when cooking. Most chefs will tell you that the seasoning is everything. It’s what makes a standard dish shine bright, stand apart from the usual suspects. It’s why you can eat 10 caesar salads, and only 1 is excellent.
To sum it up, if you want to avoid future chaotic sampler plates, take my 3 recommendations below.
Always scan your options first. Just like shopping, walk around, and get to know your options before you choose. Approach each item in terms of flavor notes - is it earthy? Should I compliment my choice with something bright and acidic or did I just get 3 more earthy, meaty foods?
Refer to the flavor pyramid - Build a base note, then complement it with middle and top notes.
Quality over quantity- focus on the flavor you want to taste, rather than several flavors that will compete and eventually be undistinguishable (think chaotic sampler plate).
